I had never been to Mallorca before my visit in October. Why do I make that comment as if it is surprising? Because it is and I have also meant to and wanted to go to see what the fuss was all about. For many years Swedes have kind of viewed Mallorca, the Gran Canarias and a larger general southern Spanish region as our vacation home. We flock there for the sun (and yes many have traditionally come for the inexpensive sangria) and have since the early days of charter Tourism. This has had its consequences, for many years no one who considered themselves ‘real’ travelers would set their foot there, it was considered de classe. However over the last few years Mallorca has especially made a comeback, and acquired a reputation as a more upscale destination, promoting its history, architecture and natural beauty, rather than its all night bars and booze.
Mallorca, with picturesque, gentrified if you will, towns such as Deia, Portal Nous, Pollensa, and Valldemossa are now playground to the rich and famous. Palma de Mallorca boasts some excellent, and expensive restaurants, luxury shopping and the whole island is cleaned up and prettified. It is undoubtedly a very, very pretty island and offers so much more than its albeit pretty beaches.
Northern Europeans, as well as Spaniards of course, purchase (seriously expensive) restored stone houses and mansions and stay over the winter. There are several international schools, from the rigid British curriculum uniform kind to more approachable, earth loving, kind. Many smaller towns are very quiet in the colder months but the larger cities boast year round tourism attractions and of course, colder in mallorca, does not mean that cold.
I went to Mallorca with my mother and son. It was a last minute spur of the moment idea and so we booked, based on recommendations a package trip. Normally I spend an inordinate amount of time researching my destinations and lodgings, but this time I didn’t have time. Besides, my mother having been to Mallorca many times to visit friends (who albeit live in a pretty stone house at the top of the old parts of Palma town, with views to die for), the hotel having received great reviews and my mother saying she had not seen any bad parts of Mallorca on her visits, we figured how bad can it be? We also wanted a hotel with a kids play group for my son and a location near palma so we could easily visit with my mother’s friends, and there were not many available hotels to chose from. Well should not have done that. It can be very bad.
Since my early days of traveling, when funds were so scarce I prioritized drink and food over decent lodgings, I have not stayed in anything as unappetizing as this place. It was so long ago that I stayed in such a ugly, worn down, uncharming, inhospitable place I had forgotten just how depressing it can be and how it affects your mood and ruins the hotel. Mind you, I am not talking about luxury versus non luxury. I am merely talking about decent lodgings, somewhat welcoming staff and clean accommodations with some kind of ambience. It was so bad my mother actually left and went home early. It was not expensive if it had been nice, but as it was not even decent it was seriously expensive. We booked the trip through Fritidsresor and stayed at the Viva Palma Nova. Bad idea all over, in every aspect, ranging from hotel to location. It was located in an awful location, with bars full of drunk Brits and Scandinavians running around in their bathing suits (if even that) in the streets, eating without their tops on in restaurants and generally embarrassing all of us who did not start drinking at breakfast nor who were not there to be shitfaced around the clock. The hotel rooms were small, dirty, the bed linens were of some kind of plastic material, and the beds extremely hard. There was no comforter, just a thin blanket, also of something polyestersish. The balcony of our first rooms faced a vet and parking lot area with garbage emptying at six every morning. We demanded room change and were placed on higher floor facing a garden which was nice, until the evening when the partying started. From seven to midnight we ‘enjoyed’ disco music so loud my son cried. The hotel did not help nor offer any understanding. And if I say that Fritidsresor (part of the Tui group) representative was unhelpful is putting it mildly. Let’s be frank, their representative was an ignorant, rude, and dumb girl with no manners or education whatsoever. She also lied, made things up on the fly and kept insulting me and my 74 year old mother. When the internet did not work she kept making excuses. Her best one was when she claimed that Spain was so underdeveloped and that it was simply impossible to get consistent, good wifi in Spain. really, last time I checked Spain through the EU, has invested a significant amount in their infrastructure and has some of the most modern IT systems in Europe. Then again, who am I to say this against a 20 year old girl who, as she said, knows this for a fact (even though she did not know what infrastructure meant. Yikes.). She then went on to claim that she could not get us a dong or mobile wifi (to provide the promised wifi) since in Spain it was impossible to get one ‘just like that’. She had asked all mobile providers and it was impossible. “Really it was like, totally, super impossible. Like really.” I asked myself in a nearby mobile store and it took five minutes to set it up.
The hotel refused to help my mother (who walks with cane) with her bag (I was not there at the time to carry it) and this representative when asked for help also refused, stating it was their policy. Wtf? She and the staff actually just stood there, looking on, refusing to help, as a 74 year old woman drags her suitcase to the elevator (first down some stairs) and then has to drag the bag along a corridor, whilst limping along with a cane. Who does that?
The hotel refused to supply soap and shampoo after cleaning hours even though we had not been provided earlier. We arrived at midnight and naturally needed to clean up after the trip. Upon discovering there was no soap or shampoo, when asked for some the receptionist actually told me to go down to the pool shower and wash my hands rather than get me some soap. Really? Oh and when we did get soap the next day mind you, the soap container e that were attached to the sinks in both our rooms had black mold on them and the canisters had most likely never ever been removed and cleaned. So fucking disgusting, I am even having a hard time controlling my anger as I write this. If it had not been for my son, I did not want him to see me blow up, I would have made much more out of this then I did. The part that is most difficult to describe is the attitude, of the hotel staff as well as of the Fritidsresor staff; their lack of any effort to help, to be kind, to be understanding, to take responsibility for their lacking hotel (Fritidsresor’s reps response was actually ‘Well none of this is my fault”) to make their paying guests tay nice. They were almost like zombies, interested, rude, illmannerd and well, for lack of better word, ignorant. What else is a person that refuses to do their job or who is not imaginative enough to proactively make any effort to make their guests stay good?
As for the kids club. Yikes! I would not leave my kid there unattended for a second. It was run, and I say that lightly, by a Swedish and a Dutch girl, in their early twenties. They were inattentive, unengaged and clearly lacking any education or knowledge of child care. They were supposed to watch the kids but they let the kids leave the group, run off and they left the kids to play alone as they gossiped with each other and other (male) staff. The engagement and the activities were lackluster at best, the playground was not particularly clean and the material fro the activities was not complete or functioning. It was so bad, it would have made for a great comedy, a Chevy Chase vacation movie, if it were not so sad. My son who had been looking forward to it all, was so disappointed and of course did not want to be there. The hotel is rated 4 stars by fritidsresor. That is a joke. I rate it 2. The website pictures are extremely misleading.
Seriously, we were shocked by all the awful aspects of this so called holiday. We immediately rented a car to get away and spent our days exploring the island, daily dreading the return to the ‘hotel’. The decor and general air of the hotel reminded us of something out of a Roy Anderson movie, all gray, and then some more gray, only in this particular setting it was all a sickening shade of apricot, everything was apricot, monochrome and depressing. Seriously we were shocked and saddened What a dump! Yes, I am sorry, I do hear myself ranting here, and there is no excuse for that, except the simply fact that there is no excuse for Fritidsresor’s and the hotel’s and its staff’s behavior.
Do I recommend Mallorca? Unequivocally yes! I recommend it for the magnificent architecture, for the amazing stone houses, small, pretty cobbled street stones towns, year round outdoor cafes, excellent hiking and biking trails, stunning views, clean water and generally very welcoming ambience. The small towns are well preserved and restored, there are plenty of cozy cafes. Spain makes excellent cappuccinos, far more so than France or Italy I found, some of the best I ever had in fact and the cheeses, do not get me started on Mallorcean cheese. The mild, the strong, the in between, the goat the cow, the hard cheese, medium hard cheese. All so wonderful! I had no idea before I came just how good this would be, the cheeses rivaled some of my favorite French cheese. /rivaled, not beat). Just like in France they are more than enough pastry shops to go around and it is all good! It seems also that today, every single town boasts trendy, Michelin rated, restaurants cooking up everything from fusion, to avant garde Spanish feasts. This all comes at a hefty price, as do the cute boutique hotels which are found in even the most remote villages. Mallorca is NOT cheap. There are low cost versions of everything, but those are simply less expensive, not inexpensive. Wine however, does come in all price classes and you can get great Rioja and any price level almost.
As much as I recommend a visit to Mallorca, I do advise against going in the high season as the island is overrun with tourists. The roads get congested with chartered buses that hold up traffic, Palma is impossible to navigate on foot or car with people everywhere and the beaches get over crowded too. Most of all I suggest you stay away from the southern tips near Palma as well as the northern beaches, where most of the charter trips go. Unless you enjoy that kind of thing.